We traverse the dry cerrado, source of many of Brazil's rivers. From Lago Manso we drive to Bom Jardim, but then? Where is the fazenda we are looking for? And why do the people seem so unwilling to help us? Bom Jardim appears to be an undiscovered Bonito, a region of unsurpassed beauty with crystaline rivers suitable for snorkelling and diving – that, and much more.