ENSENADA – The Jewel of Baja’s Pacific Coast!
By Tom Gatch

The distant call of a cruising seagull is softly overtaken by the sound of rolling waves that wash up onto the shore, leaving behind a carpet of silky, white foam. A warming sun invites you to take another sip of the cold, refreshing beverage at your side as you are lightly massaged by the gentle, ocean breeze. Occasional vendors pass beneath the thickly nestled palm trees, and politely offer you their best bargains of the day. Later in the afternoon, a gourmet meal awaits you at the resort to complete your relaxing day on a sunny, foreign beach.

Visitors to Baja Norte are lucky indeed, because living out this idyllic vision on a regular basis is well within their reach; and all without the need for expensive tickets and long lines at the airport. The gateway to these dreams lies just beyond the Mexican border, within the magical peninsula of Baja California.

Your journey need not conform to the widely portrayed vision of an expensive retreat to a swank hotel in Cabo San Lucas, because this is a place that offers something for almost everyone. The Zona Turistica, or tourist corridor, which combines the color and diversity of Tijuana with the Mediterranean- like seaport of Ensenada, is particularly convenient to visit since no tourist visas are required.

Forget about alarmist messages appearing in the news designed to sensationalize the image of northern Baja. The Mexican government has gone to great trouble and expense to insure that the region’s overall crime rate remains at a mere fraction of that found in the United States, and that the picturesque toll road linking Tijuana with the Ensenada is kept in as good or better shape than many highways found north of the border.

Travelers on this scenic, well-traveled artery can expect to encounter numerous, breathtaking views of the Pacific Ocean, as well as an occasional line of pelicans casually gliding only a few feet above the surface of the water. While heading south, the frustrations of modern, urban life can literally evaporate with the burning off of the morning fog that often hugs the rugged Baja coast.

The drive toward Ensenada is punctuated by an increasing number of condominiums and other developments designed to cater to Americans seeking a weekend or retirement villa south of the border. There are two upscale golf courses along the trek as well; Real Del Mar located just north of Rosarito, and Bajamar, which is situated about 15 miles north of Ensenada. In the middle of it all is the famed ‘lobster village’ of Puerto Nuevo, where throngs of hungry turistas go to eat their fill of one of Baja’s most popular Crustaceans.

Those seeking a good meal in this section of the peninsula are rarely disappointed. Fresh seafood is readily available, and is one of the area’s specialties. In Rosarito Beach, Mariscos de Rosarito Vince’s at Blvd. Benito Juarez No.79, is a family based dining establishment that runs their own fishing boat, and is preferred by the locals. A few blocks south, El Nido will delight the steak lovers in your group, with fork tender, mesquite grilled filet mignon that practically melts in your mouth.

About an hour’s drive further south, visitors to the City of Ensenada can take a stroll down the cobblestone sidewalk of the main business district and enjoy such amenities as outdoor cafes, interesting shops and roving Mariachi musicians. The malecon, or seawall, offers a beautifully landscaped walk along the harbor front with its huge flagpole, and there is now even a small craft harbor tucked in the middle of the new cruise ship docks, allowing easy access to the local shopping district. Along with its waterfront attractions, Ensenada offers many other points of interest, including a World-class winery, Bodegas de Santo Tomas, in the city’s central district.

The commercial fish market, or Mercado Negro, is immediately to your right as you drive into town, and is popular with many visitors. Fresh seafoods of practically every description are available from the vendors that line both rows of the building. Waiting outside, small stands offer passersby everything from fish or shrimp tacos to fresh, oyster and clam cocktails. Those who seek a higher-end dining experience also have a plethora of nearby options to choose from.

Sano will consistently impress those with a taste for fine steaks. It is located on your right just before you approach Ensenada’s waterfront, and is owned by the locally renowned Hussong family. The pricing here is comparable to that of an upscale restaurant in southern California. A few blocks away from the fish market sits Mahi-Mahi, an absolutely outstanding restaurant that focuses on incredibly fresh seafood, is reasonably priced and is usually brimming with local residents.

Directly across the street from the main plaza, Casamar is a restaurant that has been noted for serving gourmet quality seafood for decades. Another favorite of local residents is Haliotis, which is also the Latin word for abalone; a rare shellfish that also happens to be this restaurant’s house specialty. Over the past 40 years, the prized abalone has virtually disappeared from the coasts of Baja and southern California. This is one of the only places in Ensenada where you can still order what is arguably one of the most coveted Gastropods on the planet with complete confidence. Diners at Haliotis can expect to be treated to delectable seafood, excellent service, and one of the most stunning displays of beautifully made stained glass in northern Baja.

The Spanish word ensenada, which translates to cove, was the city’s given name because it sits in the middle of a large, natural harbor known as Bahia de Todos Santos. Just south of town, the bay offers many miles of beautiful, unobstructed sandy beach, broken only by the entrance to a placid, natural estuary halfway between the city and the Punta Banda peninsula. It is here where, over 50 years ago, the Estero Beach Hotel first established what has become one of Baja Norte’s most fashionable resorts. The property combines a stylish hotel operation with a small neighborhood tailored to full time and vacation residency. In addition to the tennis courts, swim-up bar and a knockout Sunday Brunch, the resort features a uniquely fascinating display of Mexican cultural art that ranks among one of the finest, and most historically accurate found in the region.

A short drive south on the main highway provides access to the fantastic kayaking, sportfishing and scuba diving in Punta Banda and La Bufadora. Punta Banda is a narrow, mostly barren, finger of land that pokes out into the Pacific Ocean at the southern end of the bay. La Bufadora is located near the very tip, and is the place where busloads of tourists are known to munch on fish tacos as they stare out at the myriad of guano covered outcroppings while waiting for the next influx of water to surge through La Bufadora’s legendary blowhole, spurt up into the air, and then dissolve into a fine, cool mist.

The hand of nature has carefully scooped a beautiful crescent shaped bay from the land just south of the blowhole, providing a nearly perfect anchorage that is protected from the northern wind and swells. On a calm day, the waters around La Bufadora turn Mediterranean with cool, clear, turquoise hues that anoint the eyes of the weary. Numerous concession stands line the narrow road leading to the blowhole, which eagerly offers visitors everything from the usual array of curios, plaster deities, and metal sculptures, to humble preparations of shellfish, or fried seafood.

Some charter captains still make a good portion of their income from commercial fishing, and catering to the needs of anglers, kayakers and scuba divers that come here to observe the abundant marine life that exists in the waters surrounding this rugged peninsula and its many hidden coves. When you stand quietly for a moment in this magical hideaway, it is sometimes hard to remember the traffic gridlock and dense population found only 100 to 250 miles to the north.

This is a very special place where the breeze blows freely through your hair, as seagulls cry out and pelicans dive into the ocean for their breakfast. But one of the best parts of this often overlooked bastion of natural beauty is that it is conveniently located only a few hours drive south of the International Border at San Ysidro, California.

R E G I O N A L I N F O R M A T I O N

Restaurants:

MARISCO’S VINCE’S
Blvd. Benito Juarez No.79, Rosarito Beach

EL NIDO
Blvd. Benito Juarez No. 67, Rosarito Beach

SANO
Carr. Tij-ens KM 108 SN, 22860, Ensenada

MAHI MAHI
Paseo Hidalgo 33, Ensenada

CASAMAR
Boulevard Costero No. 987, Ensenada

HALIOTIS
Avenida Delante No. 179, Ensenada

Upscale Lodging:

Estero Beach Hotel & Resort – Ensenada: http://esterobeach.baja.com/index.html
Rosarito Beach Hotel – Rosarito Beach: http://www.rosaritobeachhotel.com/

Activities:
Real Del Mar Golf – Playas Tijuana: http://www.baja-web.com/rosarito/realdelmar.html
Bajamar Golf – La Salina/Las Olas: http://www.bajamar.com/
Estero Beach Hotel & Resort (tennis)–Ensenada: http://esterobeach.baja.com/index.html
Rosarito Beach Hotel (tennis) – Rosarito Beach: http://www.rosaritobeachhotel.com/
Vonny’s Fleet Sportfishing – Punta Banda: http://www.vonnysfleet.com
Dale’s Dive Services – La Bufadora http://www.labufadora.com/dales/Dales.htm

Area Wineries:

Bodegas de Santo Tomas – Ensenada: Avenida Miramar #666, Between Calles 6 & 7.
Founded in 1888, Baja's oldest winery continues in the Santo Tomas Mission's winemaking tradition, and offers visitors samples of wines, breads and cheeses.

(The wineries listed below are located a few miles north of Ensenada on inland Highway 3, toward Tecate)

Vina de Liceaga
Wine tasting and tours Saturday at 1pm by appointment at Km. 93 in San Antonio de las Minas.

Mogor Badan
Tours and wine tasting by appointment at Rancho El Mogor in Valle de Guadalupe at Km. 86.5.

Monte Xanic
Wine tasting and tours ($4dlls.) by appointment at this scenic winery overlooking its vineyards in Francisco Zarco, Valle de Guadalupe, just off Highway 3 to Tecate.

Chateau Camou
Tours with wine tasting ($2dlls.) by appointment Mon.-Fri. 10am-2pm, Sat. 10am-noon at this fragrant winery overlooking its vineyards in Francisco Zarco, Valle de Guadalupe, just off Highway 3 to Tecate.

Casa Pedro Domecq
Free tours and tasting of wines and brandies are offered by Mexico's oldest producer of wines Mon.-Fri. 10am-4pm, Sat. 10am-1:30pm in Valle de Guadalupe at Km. 73.

L.A. Cetto
Free tours and tasting of wines, coolers, brandy and tequila are offered daily 10am-4pm. Purchase a bottle and picnic on the terrace overlooking the vineyards in Valle de Guadalupe at Km. 73.5. Also visit the winery in Tijuana at Canon Johnson #2108 & Av. Constitucion Sur for tours with wine tasting ($2dlls./$3 with souvenir glass) Mon.-Sat. 10am-5pm.

Mexican Auto Insurance

Oscar Padilla Insurance Services – San Ysidro
http://www.bajaquest.com/insurance/mexicaninsurance.htm

Instant Mexico Auto Insurance Services – San Ysidro http://www.mexonline.com/instant1.htm

Additional Information:

Baja California Tourism Information: (800) 225-2786

Ensenada Convention & Visitor Bureau: (61) 78-2411
Blvd. Costero y Blvd. Teniente Azueta, #540
Ensenada, B.C. 22800

Mexico Travel Brochures: (800) 44-MEXICO
Rosarito Convention & Visitor Bureau: (800) 962-BAJA
907 #14 Centro Comercial Oeanna Plaza
Rosarito, B.C.