When you are selling your home, the potential buyer usually will request a home inspection. Once the home inspection is completed, the buyer then creates a "repair request" from the items the home inspector list as needing attention, should be repaired or safety issue. A common repair request is caulking around tubs, showers and sinks. This is a simple "repair" and one you can do yourself.

Caulking around the sink and countertop is what prevents water from going under the sink when splashed outside of the bowl. If water gets under the sink it can damage the countertop base, which is plywood, mold can grow and the plywood can actually become so damaged that the stability of the sink is compromised. This water seepage over time can also damage the cabinet and cabinet bottom under the sink.

On bathtubs, the caulking works as a flexible joint that seals the tub and wall joint to prevent water from seeping into the wall, which can be very damaging to the entire wall surround of the tub. Water is absorbed in wood and cement (cement boards are used in tile installations) in up (wicking) and down directions, damaging the entire wall and floor framing for the tub. If your walls are tiled, the water can also cause the tiles to fall. If you have a tub/shower combination, the shower water can seep into the walls as well as the splashing from a bath. For those with children, bath splashing is inevitable. : )

Over time, the tub/wall joint can weaken from expanding and contracting with the weight of water and the body getting in and out of the tub. it is important to check your caulk seal around your tub periodically.

In the shower, particularly tiled showers, caulking plays an even greater roll than a nice joint finish and water seepage protection. It also works as an expansion joint. It allows the expansion and compression during heating (use of hot water) and cooling (when the shower is done) of the floor/wall joint as well as the wall corner joints.

If you notice that the caulking around your sinks, tubs or showers is missing in places or has a bit of mold or mildew on it, it is time to apply a fresh application of caulking. To do this, the first and important step is to remove the old caulking.

Using a box cutter cut the old caulking from the top of the joint separating it from the wall or countertop to the bottom at about a 45 degree angle from top to bottom along the length of the joint. Next, cut the bottom of the joint releasing its adhesion from the sink, tub or shower floor, you can then pull the old caulking out of the joint. If it breaks, no worries just use the box cutter to cut it free of either the wall or fixture and pull again. Repeat this until all the dirty and soap covered caulking is removed. The final step is to make sure that there is no caulking "splinters" left in the joint. These will interfere with the fresh application and smooth finish.

When applying caulk, run a bead of caulk along the joint or gap, then with a damp finger, smooth it out by running your finger atop the bead. Do not press the caulk into the joint as it will sink and you will have to add more caulk. The idea is to seal the gap, not fill it. The damp finger helps in the smoothing of the caulk and helps to keep the caulk from sticking to your finger. Keep a wet rag or paper towel handy to wipe your finger clean in between runs. A wet sponge works great too in smoothing the caulk. Keep a bucket of water near you to rinse the sponge. It is necessary to keep clean water in the bucket so residue of the caulk is not spread during the smoothing process.
 

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