Not quite December and already my thoughts turn toward the house full of family for a hearty Christmas dinner. I picture all of us around the table taking in the fragrances and colors of the food, giving thanks for being together and celebrating with food.

Since we had a pet turkey years ago, a personable and charming feathered rogue who made regular visits into the house for a quick visit, we are naturally reluctant to eat turkey for any of the traditional poultry holidays..... so we've chosen sea foods, roasts of beef, pasta dishes.... all manner of non-turkey foods.

Snood was his name. His was a short life. He arrived as an anniversary gift in mid-April, tiny and peeping from a small brown bag. He lived only until November, but he was not destined for the oven. He lived on the cast-off weeds and running bugs in our back garden, and entertained us to no end with his flamenco-like dances. Once, he had a tug of war with our basset hound because both wanted the same stick. It was hilarious watching the two circling round and round, each not relenting and tugging their end of the stick. In the end, the stick broke and both family beasts won.

But this is about food, not pet turkeys. I thought it might be good to tell you why we're having a non-turkey feast for Christmas. This year, I think we'll have langostino in a garlicky butter sauce, served piled high over freshly made polenta with lots of parmesan in and grated over the lot.

Langostino are in the family of lobster, but are the modestly-priced relatives. I watch all year at the seafood shops and stock the freezer with them towards Christmas and the holidays. Sometimes here in Canada where I've lived this past year I can find small lobster tails for ridiculously low prices, so when I do, I buy them in enough quantity to use them in place of langostino.

I begin by putting on a large pot over low heat with equal quantities of butter and olive oil, usually about 4 tablespoons of each. To this I add at least four large garlic cloves finely chopped, and let the mixture melt and heat until the kitchen is fragrant with the garlic. The aim is fragrance, not color, so the garlic should not be allowed to become even golden. Now the simmering liquid is ready for the langostino or lobster. Add the langostino and cook only until it is no longer translucent; in other words, you do not get the impression that light passes through any longer. They may or may not have some red coloration when done. At this point, add a good splash of white wine and a generous handful of flat-leafed parsley, along with the juice of about half of a freshly squeezed lemon. Immediately turn this savory seafood concoction over freshly made and mounded polenta on a pretty serving plate. Grate some really good quantity parmesan* over all and bring to the table where each diner is encouraged to help him/herself to a feast of flavors.
I always prefer real Parmigiano Reggiano cheese. It costs much more, but in the end, it has so much flavor that the per-serving cost is about the same.

Here is a recipe for the polenta:

Basic Polenta
6 cups water
1 teaspoon salt, preferably Kosher
1 1/4 cups polenta
1 cup freshly grated Parmigiano Reggiano
Bring the water to a rolling boil over high heat. Add the salt, stir briefly to distribute and dissolve the salt, then add the polenta in a thin stream while stirring. Cook over high heat until the mixture begins to make large slow bubbles, then turn down the heat to medium or medium low, stirring constantly, cooking until the polenta grains have bloomed and are tender. The mixture will be fairly thick. Add the grated Parmigiano Reggiano and continue stirring until it has all melted into the polenta. Serve mounded in the middle of a large platter, and serve your choie of topping to accompany.

Enjoy what you eat!