Introduction

Tree surgery or at least tree trimming is something every home owner has to do at some point in time. Fortunately, in most cases it involves nothing more than cutting back some small branches on trees or shrubs which are simply a little too close to the house or walkways. This is nothing more than snipping the offending branches and disposing of them. But, there is much more to taking care of your trees and shrubs than cutting and slashing.

Tools

There are a variety of tools you'll need to properly take care of your trees-all of which are common items and easily obtained.

The most obvious of these is a saw. There are, however, a wide variety of saws with a wide variety of functions. For most minor trimming jobs a simple hand-saw will suffice. Another handy saw to have around is a small bow saw. Many of these come with different style blades which can be interchanged depending upon which usage you are planning. For pruning the best blade is the log cutting type. This is a smaller version of the large bow saw blades used in bucking up logs. A pole saw is indispensable for tree trimming. This is a long pole (usually wooden, fiberglass, or aluminum) with a small, curved rip saw at the end. It will also have a hook next to the saw which is used for grabbing small limbs and pulling them down. This hook is also handy for placing a safety rope over an out of reach limb (more on this later). Very often pole saws have a branch clipper on the saw end too. This is a small spring loaded knife blade which is operated by pulling on a rope. The rope pulls the blade through the limb cutting it very cleanly. The poles themselves also come in lengths varying from six to sixteen feet in length. Some are one piece, some are telescopic (usually fiberglass or aluminum), and still others are in sections which must be assembled.

Another indispensable tool is a clipper or pruner (also known as lopping shears). These are the familiar two-handled tools which slice through small branches (usually of less than two inches in diameter). These vary somewhat in that there are different sizes available and differing handle types (some are metal and some are wooden).

Another type of saw which is indispensable to any homeowner is a chain saw. There are so many brands available that it's hard to list them, let alone recommend one. Each has their own selling points. The German and Swedish ones are excellent and trustworthy. The only complaints I've heard about them is that they're slightly harder to work on when they need repairs than are the American saws. But, other than that they are definitely outstanding machines.

Homelite always made a quality saw (it's the one I use for large jobs), but several years ago they went to a plastic body and this makes me nervous. I haven't heard any complaints about this, but it still causes me trepidation. Even Craftsman makes a fairly good saw (I have a fourteen inch one I use for small jobs which has never given me any problems).

Poulan and McCulloch have good reputations too. So, all I can advise you on is ask around with others who use saws a lot and see if you can find a consensus.

One thing I do recommend against is purchasing an electric chain saw. These just don't have the power of gas powered saws. What's more, they don't hold up as well either. With a chain saw you must always have oil in it to lubricate the chain. Invariably, some oil will find its way inside the saw and when you get oil in an electric motor you develop problems. Most often the motor's brushes burn out. This is an expensive repair and I've known people who have to take it back time and time again for the same repair-regardless of how careful they are on keeping the tool clean.

When using a chain saw you should always have a small tool kit for quick repairs or adjustments. This should include a socket wrench for removing spark plugs and the bolts which hold on the guide bar. You should have a pair of pliers. And, you'll also need a screwdriver for adjusting the chain when it loosens up. A screwdriver is also handy for cleaning away compacted sawdust from the saw.

There are specialty chain saws out there too. One in particular is the so-called Power Pruner. This is a small chain saw which is telescopic and allows you to reach and cut small limbs (up to ten inch diameters) which are out of reach even with ladders. This tool adds up to seventeen feet to your reach. Its only problem is the expense as it costs several hundred dollars. I couldn't justify the expense unless you're a commercial tree surgeon or unless you're one of those people who likes to buy yourself "toys" like this and can afford the luxury.

Rope is often a necessity and there are several varieties to choose from. The most familiar is the old-fashioned hemp or manila type. It's the cheapest type of rope, but not durable and the most prone to rot. Polypropylene is popular, durable, and strong, but its drawback is that it's rather stiff and wiry and it's prone to kinking. My favorite is nylon which is very strong, durable, and flexible. All in all nylon is the best buy. Different diameters are needed for different jobs. A small 1/4 inch diameter rope is good for passing tools and hardware from the ground to the worker up in the tree so they won't have to climb down each time they need another tool. But, if you need a safety line 1/4 inches isn't adequate. For this function you'll need 1/2 inch. If you need to anchor a tree or to lower a branch safely to the ground without damaging nearby property, then you'll need at least 3/4 inch or larger rope.

You'll need a ladder too. A common four or six-foot stepladder will suffice for most jobs, but an extension ladder will be needed for larger projects. These come in many lengths and are constructed of different types of materials. The old reliable wooden ones are good provided that they're stored indoors (so they won't rot). But, they're very heavy. Aluminum ones are lightweight and sturdy, but heaven help you if you're working around power lines. There are now fiberglass ladders available which are good for when you're near power lines, lightweight, and durable.

Safety Gear

Now that you have the tools you'll be needing, you must have the accouterments for using them safely. The most obvious of these are work gloves. The best is the leather type which have the adjustable thongs at the wrist to ensure that they're on firmly. Cloth gloves are no good because they're always getting stuck on something and they wear out too fast.

A hard hat should always be worn as branches and even tools fall down on you when you're working. Many times a hard hat has spared me from serious injury.

Safety glasses should be worn when using a chain saw and when splitting wood as chips are always flying around.

Some form of hearing protector should be worn when using a chain saw or any other type of power tool.

The Art Of Trimming And Pruning

Different trees require different needs. Fruit trees need more care than shade trees as they won't provide healthy fruit unless they're maintained properly. The rosaceae family of trees are the most notable of these. This includes apples, peaches, crabapples, cherries, and plums. If left to their own devices they quickly become overgrown and suffer branch crowding. Deformed and poor fruit growth ensues. Eventually rot, dieback, and other diseases set in and by this time you might just as well cut the tree down as try to nurse it back to health.

With these, the thing you need to be diligent about is getting rid of the sucker branches. These are the small branches which grow all over fruit trees each spring and summer . If left alone they'll grow out of control.

Shade trees are easier to maintain as they, for the most part, take care of themselves. They too will develop branches which are unnecessary and can lead to problems. Most of the time this involves branches which change the center of gravity of the tree and can lead to splitting. Other times it will involve a branch which consumes valuable nourishment and adds nothing to the trees aesthetics or to its general health.

Still other examples are the most common which are the branches which either endanger buildings or walkways or are just an annoyance.

Removing Branches

Most of this is common sense as in not allowing a cut branch to strike wires or a building. The secret to avoiding this is planning. This is when using your rope comes into play. It usually isn't necessary when cutting small branches, but when you're dealing with large branches (more than two inches in diameter) you must lower them gently and carefully. This is done by first determining the center of gravity of the branch (this is tricky with live trees when leaves are out and when the sap runs. Sap adds around twice its usual weight). With this established, you must tie a safety rope around the branch usually at the approximate center of gravity or somewhat above it. Then you must toss the free end of the line over another branch which is somewhere above the one to be cut. Be sure that it's a live branch and one which will support the full weight of the cut branch after it's cut. Next, the free end of the line must be anchored to something firm. This can be another tree, a utility pole, a car bumper, or anything else nearby which is firm enough to support the tension.

Once this is done, you may cut the branch. If you judge the center of gravity correctly the butt will fall toward the ground until the rope catches its fall. It should remain suspended at the center of gravity or with the butt end hanging downward. Now, the branch can be safely lowered to the ground. Most people think that they won't be able to lower the branch by themselves because it's too heavy. The secret is drag. This is accomplished by running the free end (anchor end) around the anchor point a couple of times. With each twist more drag is created. One person can easily hold a branch weighing hundreds of pounds or more provided that the rope is strong enough and that they have enough drag on the line. After doing this once you'll see what I mean.

Summation

Tree trimming can be a fun and rewarding experience. I recommend that all homeowners learn how to do it. The secret is that you must always practice safety, planning, foresight, and at all times THINK, THINK, THINK!

Don't tackle anything you can't handle or get in over your head! Don't climb a ladder or into the tree with a running chainsaw. Don't get tangled in your ropes. And always wear your safety gear.

Copyright © 1996 AJS