Looking Out on Charleston's Harbour I grew up here, in Charleston, actually I grew up in horse country about two and a half hours east- but I spent a great deal of my childhood in the streets of downtown, the beaches of James Island and the greens of the Citadel- listening to the cannons fire. In high school it was my weekend escape- strange for a teenager but then again i wasn't much of a teenager really.
Now, in California, I often find myself wishing for the cool harbour breezes and southern charm of a local coffee shop along Market Street. When the yearning gets especially bad and all I want to do is move back to my oldest friends and spend my days writing in some King Street studio apartment or taking pictures of locals- I tend to spend an annoying amount of time telling my friends here about Charleston. But it's times like these when I wonder if those not from the South could truly enjoy this city so steeped in Southern tradition and the slow, almost European pace of life. Afterall, the most ironic thing about the rest of the countries view of the "ignorant South" is that it is itself ignorant. Most of those judging it have never set foot in the South.
If they did, if they truly took the time to take it in, like they would the Italian culture or Parisian culture when they visit Rome or Paris, I think most would find a place where they could forget themselves.
The South has taken the example of Europe and learned that it can keep its history and tradition while pushing forward into the future- and while it may not be as anxious to get things done as the rest of America- it does take the time to enjoy itself. Charleston's back street art galleries are there for the locals to enjoy not as a public display of its culture like the Getty.
Everything about Charleston makes it the perfect example of the South's ability to hang on to it's roots (and therefore its culture) unlike much of the rest of the country (though I'll give credit to New England). Charleston is indeed a living museum- and much to the dismay of the rest of this country it is not all the backwards history and stories of the "War of Northern Aggression" that they would expect.
Walking along the cobblestone streets one can find Charleston singles built in the time of colonial Charleston and steeped in Revolutionary history. The Swamp Fox himself may have wandered these streets before his guerilla war tactics played such a vital part in winning us our freedom from the English. And the Island (Sullivans) where the Royal Navy was defeated by Palmetto Trees stands right off the coast.
Among the Charleston singles near the battery stands the home of the "real Rhett Butler" and the Dock Street Theatre boasts the ghost of John Wilkes Boothe's father.
Charleston's tourism is able to poke fun at its Rebel history while taking pride in it's Southern tradition. From the carriage tours to the ghost tours you'll find history alive an well. But it is Charleston's life that makes it so special today.
The old slave market- where most say everything but slaves was once sold by slaves- now host locals selling everything from homemade perfumes and spices to tourist t-shirts, jewelry and kitchen decor. On the corners, one usually finds gichee and gullah (two of the local dialects) women weaving some of the most beautiful sweet grass baskets you'll find- an art which has lasted centuries and some fear may die out. Art galleries by local artist and footlight theatres can be found closer to the battery- and in between stand fine restaurants serving everything from shrimp and grits to amazing Sicilian and French food- with one of the greatest culinary colleges in the world in Charleston you can count on the food being good. Saturday's host a farmers market in Marion Square- not far from the college- where the crepes are highly recommended for breakfast. Stop by during New Year's and you can return to Marion Square for a good time or join on of the many black tie parties in central downtown or try out the rooftop bar.
Of course, all these places are within walking distance- another European like trait. And if Charleston should be recognized for anything, it should be for the amazing walks you can take through it. A walk down the battery or along the pier will show you terrific views of the harbour fueled by a soothing sea breeze. There really is so much more to Charleston than one can put on paper- it's the sights, smells, the tastes and the energy that make it so important- take the time to take in the back streets and the tradition of the South and you may just put down the Blackberry for a few days and decide slowing down may not be such a bad thing after all.