More Than Marfa Ghost Lights

We went to Marfa to see the lights. What else is here in the little town of about 2100 population? Hungry from a day exploring Big Bend National Park, we looked for a restaurant in the town not expecting to find what we did on the little out-of-the way side street. We stopped and asked somewhere in town where there was a good restaurant. On a Sunday night we didn’t expect to find much open. Then we turned the corner to discover the Paisano Hotel.

We were seated immediately outdoors in the courtyard by the fountain, the center piece of the hotel. A welcome cool breeze was blowing as we relaxed from our long day. Checking the menu to determine our choices, what immediately caught our eye was the Pistachio Crusted Steak with Jalapeño gravy. We munched on warm rolls and butter while we waited for our dinner, commenting on our “find of the day,” this delightful historic hotel. Normally we would have bypassed it entirely.

Asking a few questions while we waited, we found out some interesting history about the grand old structure. We learned that the hotel was opened in June, 1930, built by Charles Bassett of El Paso. It was one of five hotels he built in West Texas and eastern new Mexico, a part of the Gateway Hotel Chain. The construction company was McKee Construction out of El Paso, and they had also built most of the early Hilton Hotels in Texas in the 920’s and 1930’s.

The Paisano was known as a cattleman’s hotel for its first 40 years in that ranchers from all over the area met for business meetings here because of its location and even bought and sold their herds from the lobby of the hotel. The railroad depot was just two blocks away and many travelers found easy access to the hotel for a night’s stay between California and San Antonio. There were many social events held here within a 100 mile radius of Marfa such as weddings, parties, and receptions.

In 1955 Warner Brothers chose Marfa as the location for the filming of the movie, Giant. The cast and crew including James Dean, Elizabeth Taylor, and Rock Hudson made the hotel their headquarters. There is much memorabilia from the movie in the lobby, and James Dean’s hotel room is still a popular one for travelers.

Sad to say, as happens with many old and beautiful buildings, this one fell into disrepair and was closed in the late 1970’s. There was much discussion as to what to do next, and by 2001 the building was purchased and plans made for renovation to restore the hotel to the historic splendor of the 1930’s including a restaurant. After three years of renovation, 33 rooms were completed. That was the treasure we found and the history we learned.

Now you are probably wondering about our Pistachio Crusted Steak with Jalapeño Gravy. It is hard to get much more Texas than country fried steak, but this one encrusted with pistachios rated an A+. We found that at Jett’s Grill this is their featured entrée. It was the perfect choice with just the right crispiness covering the very tender sirloin steak. The jalapeño gravy was not too mild and not too hot. It was just right. Other entrees include:

Ranchman’s one pound rib eye with chipotle butter

Garlic Shrimp Wraps with melted Monterey jack cheese

Rosemary Pork Tenderloin brushed with paprika and fresh rosemary

Tuscan Flank Steak topped with sun dried tomatoes

When I visit Marfa the next time I will know that standing tall on Highland Avenue off of the main route is an exceptional dining experience. Looking over the menu once again at Jett’s Grill I may be tempted to order something different, but my guess is that it will be Pistachio Crusted Steak with Jalepeno gravy.

The Hotel Paisano is located at 207 N. Highland Avenue, Marfa Texas 79843 432-729-3669.

Jett’s Grill is open for dinner seven days a week from 5:30 - 9:00 p.m.. Breakfast 7-10:0 a.m. and lunch 11:30-2:00.

The Marfa Mystery lights are 9 miles east of Marfa on Highway 90.

Other things of interest in the area are the Chinati Foundation, a contemporary art Museum. 432-729-4362 along with several other galleries.

Ballroom Marfa at 108 E. San Antonio Street, Marfa, Texas 79843
copyright 2009 by Marilyn Murphree