PVC pipe repair is easily done with some basic tools, PVC fittings, glue, and primer. If you have above-ground or underground pipe for irrigation or sprinkler heads, leaks can develop due to damage from foot traffic, lawnmowers, or UV rays from sunlight. You can find plastic pipe, glue, and fittings at your local home improvement center or plumbing supply store. Here are the steps to make the repair as easy as possible.

Things You'll Need:

• Hacksaw or pipe cutter

• Course sandpaper, or razor knife

• PVC primer-purple

• Clear PVC cement

• PVC pipe and fittings

• Tape measure

Step 1: Determine the size and schedule of pipe to be fixed – 1/2”, 3/4”, 1”, schedule 40, etc. Most pipe has this printed along its length every foot or so. Fittings generally have the information molded into the plastic itself, which may be easier to read. The “size” refers to the inside diameter of the pipe, while the “schedule” refers to the wall thickness, and therefor the strength, of the pipe and fittings.

Step 2: Figure out which elbows and couplers you'll need to replace the broken section, and get them from a home center or other source. I always get a few extra; they aren't expensive, and they'll probably be needed for future repairs. Also pick up a stick of PVC pipe to match the existing piping.

Step 3: Use a saw or pipe cutter to remove the damaged section, and de-bur all rough edges with sandpaper or a razor knife. De burring makes gluing and assembling the parts much easier. If you've dug a hole around a buried portion, and can't get a saw in to cut the pipe, try using nylon twine: Wrap a loop under the pipe, and “saw” back and forth, to melt through the PVC. Use long, smooth strokes, and keep it moving, or the twine will get trapped in the soft plastic. If the twine breaks, just unroll some more, and continue until you're through the pipe. Then debur as usual.

Step 4: Dry fit the pieces to the existing pipe. Try to get the pipe to “bottom out” in the socket of each fitting. Then, measure for new pipe to join the fittings together. Measure to the inside “stop” of each coupler or elbow, then cut the pipe to size and debur inside and outside of all cut ends. Dry fit the new pipe in place. If you're fixing anything but a straight section of pipe, you'll have at least one elbow, or 90 degree piece, and maybe a “tee” fitting. Notice the register marks molded into the fitting, usually at ¼ or ½ way around the part. Use these to line the parts back up when gluing.

Step 5: Take the pieces apart, and apply primer to all mating surfaces. Get inside all sockets of fittings, and outside the ends of all pipe. Priming not only cleans the plastic of grease and hand oils; it partially dissolves the surface to allow the cement to bond the parts together. Any lines under pressure, especially, should be primed for maximum strength. You can let the primer dry before gluing, or not; just keep the primed parts clean.

Step 6: Use PVC cement to glue the pieces together, using the register marks, if needed, to orient them correctly. Coat the parts evenly, without slopping it on. Push the pipe firmly into each socket, giving a quarter turn to help spread the cement. Then hold the parts together for 10 seconds or so, to prevent the pipe from “backing out” of the joint.

Step 7: Wait at least 20-30 minutes before applying water pressure to the repair. Joints under suction can be used immediately. There should be no leaks; if there are, check that you didn't miss gluing a connection, and be sure you don't pressurize the joint too soon after gluing.
 

Step 8: If the pipe or fittings are exposed to sunlight, paint them as soon as possible, to prevent damage from UV rays.