By JAMES RAIA
www.ByJamesRaia.com

Travelers to Carmel-by-the-Sea, the ocean-landscaped retreat on the Monterey Peninsula in central California, have vast and varied accommodation choices.

Quaint bed & breakfast inns to refurbished historic motels, more than 60 options are available in the one-square-mile hamlet.

Ocean Ave. is the city's main artery, and many of the accommodations are located among or within a few blocks of the epicenter's diverse collection of shops and restaurants.

This convenience can both add to the enjoyment of visiting Carmel and it can present issues.

Walking is a favorite pastime among locals and tourists. But it's those same visitors and a steady flow of two-way vehicular traffic that can prove bothersome for guests at the most centrally located accommodations during popular seasons. As such, even in the paradise that is Carmel, convenient hotel parking and quiet rooms are not commonplace.

Through the years, however, Carmel establishments located off-the-beaten path, like Tradewinds Inn, have enticed a loyal following by offering a simple but important formula: quality rooms and service, plentiful parking and serenity.

Nonetheless, after reaching middle age, the Tradewinds Inn needed a makeover. The result is a $4 million renovation (completed in 2004) that transformed the facility into a Asian-influenced inn and place of peace. Susan Stilwell, the daughter of original 1959 owners, Richard and Patricia Catlin, collaborated on the recently completed one-year project with interior designer Charles Gruwell.

Flowing fountains, bamboo screens and tropical plants dominate the centerpiece meditation garden. Custom-designed furniture, multicolored slate floors and accents from Bali and China are prevalent in each of the 28 rooms. The Asian-dominated interior and exterior motif is a family preference. Stilwell's father collected antiques on his trips to Japan, and some of his collection also decorates the lobby.

The lobby also more resembles the entry way of a spa rather than a hotel reception. Two sentinel-like statues rest on each side of the entry, and the guest check-in area features furnishings and an ambiance similar to room offerings.

While parking is limited or offered for a daily fee in some Carmel accommodation locations, covered and on-street parking in plentiful and free at the Tradewinds Inn.

I stayed in a second-floor deluxe king room with an ocean view during my visit. While not extraordinarily large, the arrangement of the furniture, sitting area, vanity and wetbar was ideal, the color scheme well-planned and amenities plentiful.

The bed pillows, sheets and comforter were all top-of-the-line and the bathroom towels, bathrobe and slippers were likewise of superior quality. The bathroom was well appointed (hair dryer and magnified vanity mirror) and the walk-in shower had strong water pressure.

Tradewinds Inn is located at Third Ave., four blocks north from the corners of Mission Street and Ocean Ave. The morning following my night's stay, I left the inn on an early run. I progressed to Ocean Ave. and then traveled west along Scenic Drive, the meandering oceanfront street that parallels the Pacific Ocean toward Carmel Valley.

An hour later, I returned to the inn. The breakfast room next to the lobby was empty, so I dined in my running clothes. Nearly instantly, I realized I should have known better.

Unlike the self-service and sloppy continental breakfast rooms in some inns, the Tradewinds' offering resembled a small, neat restaurant.

Fresh-squeezed orange juice, coffee and varies teas were among the beverages. The food offerings included bagels, fresh fruit, pastries, muffins and waffles. The handful of tables were clean the service staff returned frequently. Next time, I'll dress accordingly.

For reservation information, contact Tradewinds Inn, Mission Street & Third Ave., Carmel, Calif. Tel. 831-624-2776. Web site: www.tradewindsinn.com

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